Sept
19 Last
night was cold – in our tent inside the straw hut, we slept in our clothes
under three blankets. I remember such nights here in the middle of winter –
late June thru mid-August – but by September the nights were always warmer and
the days were hot. People around here are saying that it’s hotter than usual –
high 80’s, even 90. I suspect this is our version of climate change. As long as
it keeps raining we’ll be fine, but we’re on the edge of the region where
desertification is likely to occur with advancing global warming. This is why
we plan to build cisterns and rain catchment systems despite the fact that the
local people consider it unnecessary.
We
have no piped water yet – all our water is brought up from the stream in
buckets.
We’ve been drinking straight from the stream as there are no houses
upstream and the spring is within sight, about a mile west of our homestead.
However, two or three times a day cattle comes down to drink and muddies the
water. The best time to draw water is early in the morning. And we will buy a
water filter in the next few days. We’re keeping our fingers crossed that we’re
not already full of parasites or other disease. No tummy aches so far. We took
our cues from the local workers who drink straight from the stream.
Today
the workers are treating us to a “galinhada” – a big pot of rice, chicken and
corn. On the last day, hopefully day-after-tomorrow, we’ll treat them to a
festive meal. They’re a good bunch – friendly, they tell stories and jokes, and
ask hundreds of questions about the States, the English language, our former
occupations, relationships, etc. They know that we’re environmentalists and
make endless comments – both serious and humorous – about our food, our
systems, and our attitudes. They talk about religion a lot, debating
creationism versus evolution – were the first people Adam and Eve or were they
monkeys, and creationism versus the big bang; and the true nature of Jesus, and
of so-called prophets such as Muhammed. They ask me if I believe in God, if
humans come from monkeys, if homosexuality is a sin against God. I answer
honestly – no, yes, no – and all is well.
One
of them is the typical evangelical believer, so common currently in Brazil,
replacing the complacent and easy-going Roman Catholics. They think that the world’s
greatest preachers are American, starting with Billy Graham. It scares me.
Spring
here begins officially this weekend, while for our friends in the northern
hemisphere it will be the Autumn Equinox. Each holds its own beauty and
promise.
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